The Zócalo

Zócalo is a word that is uniquely Mexican. The term is derived from the Italian zoccolo which means pedestal. In the 1800s, a plan was made to build a column in Mexico City´s main square in remembrance of Mexican independence. The monument was never completed; however, the base of it - the pedestal - remained for many years. Since this time, the main plaza, which is officially called Plaza de la Constitución, is commonly referred to as the zócalo.

Cities large and small through Mexico have adopted the name for their own central plazas. Cuernavaca has an especially vibrant and active zócalo. Events are held in the open area plaza, snuggled between Palace of Cortez (built in the 14th century) and the head government building of Cuernavaca. On any given day, there may be two or three organized events taking place on the square.

For example, last Sunday we caught a Mexico vs. Chile soccer match on the big screen set up specifically for the game. Dozens of passersby gathered especially towards the end of the game when the teams were fighting to break a scoreless match. In the 79th minute, Mexico´s Andrés Guardado scored on a brilliant free kick to lead the team to victory. The plaza erupted in applause. On Tuesday, a small peace demonstration was held in the zócalo. Musicians and poets performed moving pieces calling for the government to end the drug war. It seems that every time we pass by, something new is happening: a concert, a rally, a play, traditional dancing, break-dancing, or mariachi bands.

With the recent Mexican Independence Day celebrations (¡September 16th! ¡Viva Mexico!), the zócalo has seemed even more festive than usual. The buildings are covered in red, white and green fabric - the colors of the Mexican flag. Vendors are selling not only small, medium and large versions of the country´s flag, but belts, comically large sombreros, six foot high pencil-shaped balloons with streamers, and just about anything else that might be even remotely connected to the celebrations.

Independence Day celebrations did not disappoint. The celebrations began on the 15th of September with "El Grito" - which translates as "the shout!" It commemorates the first cries of Mexican independence in 1810. In the evening, Cuernavacan families filled the zócalo to watch various musicians and bands sing everything from traditional Mexican tunes to the grooves of 1950s American classics like "Louie Louie." At 11pm, the governor of the state of Morelos gave a very charismatic speech and led the crowd in the annual grito. "¡Viva México! ¡Viva Morelos! ¡Viva Zapata!" were all shouted from the youngest toddler to the oldest grandma. And then the red, white and green fireworks closed out the night as the rain began to pour - and I do mean pour - on the thousands of people squished together in the zócalo.